SoPaRo: A Trio of Special Places
Sculpterra Garden Art
Southeast of Paso Robles you can visit a trio of closely grouped but distinctly different wineries, which make for a pleasant afternoon along Linne Road and its wild bird rookeries.
I drove up from Atascadero via Highway 41 east and over to Linne, a route that meanders through the foothills and along a dry wash. Even though this is the driest time of the year – before the winter rains – I still found myself stopping to snap photos of back-lighted fall leaves.
Sculpterra Winery Sculpture Garden on Linne Road was my first stop, a truly unique destination that has been open only a month. After trying to crash two wrong entrances, I was finally guided via cell phone by the patient tasting-room hostess, Martha.
Before I even entered the tasting room, I had to whip out my camera again for shots of the magnificent sculpture garden, featuring the works of metal artist Bob Bentley and sculptor John Jagger.
Although the outdoor art is exotic, inside I was treated to wine as American as apple pie. In fact, Martha refers to their 06 Chardonnay as “apple pie wine” because of its fruitiness, warm vanilla tones and a dab of butter, which prompted me to ask, “French oak? Malolactic fermentation?”
Yes to the oak, Martha said, explaining that the vanilla is subtle because only 10 percent is from the oak. But no secondary fermentation, so I think even anti-malolactic Mike would approve of this one. I grabbed a bottle ($16) for Thanksgiving.
Next came their 06 Pinot Grigio, which Martha suggested I pair with the bread and mandarin-flavored oil they were serving. “The orange really makes that Pinot pop,” she said. And she was right!
Their 05 Gold Medal award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon had a nice little burst of fruitiness that made it through the leather. But I couldn’t quite peg it. “Boysenberry,” is how Martha characterized it. “It’s very fruit forward.”
The berry note lingered so long, I told her it seemed quite fruit backward, too. "I’m going to use that,” she chuckled. You heard it here first!
As I was driving out, an awful noise interrupted the peaceful afternoon. A glance across the vine rows revealed the source: a group of sassy little burros enjoying the sunny day.
The braying was quickly replaced by birdsong as I drove along Linne to Peman Springs Road and the wild bird rookeries that dot the roadside.
I’d been careful to check with Martha before venturing down the dirt washboard shortcut to my next stop. It crosses a dry wash that you want to avoid in wet weather, or even in dry if you've just washed your car. Even at 5 mph, it didn’t take long to travel the mile and a half to Clautiere Vineyard.
The self-styled “Edward Scissorhands meets the Mad Hatter at the Moulin Rouge” tasting room sports a funky purple décor, with piles of hats and wigs to indulge your zanier side.
Their 05 Viognier has a pleasant grapefruit flavor, rather than the peaches and honeymore commonly associated with this Rhone white. ($18) For the $5 tasting fee (you can keep the glass, wrapped in purple tissue paper), they will pour you a wide variety of their estate Rhones, blends, Cab, and even a high-end 04 Port-style wine made from three Portuguese grape varieties -- expensive but heady. ($69)
The Cass Winery (L) and Picnic Area (R)
Back-tracking down Linne Road, I ended my jaunt at lovely Cass Winery so I could enjoy a late lunch from their fun menu, which offers up such dishes as mushroom “cappuccino” soup and “truffle” pizza -- all of which you can enjoy outside on their covered terrace or inviting old trees. I had the crab cakes ($14), which were excellent.
Intending to stay only long enough for a glass or two, I spent an hour and a half chatting with the friendly young staff, all Cal Poly students or graduates, and tasting seven of their 100% estate wines.
Their 06 Viognier was hand picked at first light, they say, to keep the grapes as cold as possibly on their way to the winery. ($24) They also offer a good Viognier-Marsanne-Roussanne blend. ($28)
Although I’m a little afraid of 100% Mourvedre, which you usually find in blends for good reason, their 05 Hacienda has a more delicate flavor than most I’ve tried. ($34)
Another loner that’s usually a blender is their 05 Cabernet Franc, a bold wine which they claim will “age like a sea turtle” or go with “the reddest of meats and any mammal from Africa. “ ($42)
My favorite is their best-seller, Rockin One 2005, a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenche. Enough tannins to help it age well, but not too overpowering to drink now -- “with a good cigar in hand,” they recommend. ($42)
The finale for my tasting was a couple of dessert wines: a late-harvest Cab Franc with 17% alcohol that is smoothed out by the strong fruit, and a late-harvest Roussane with a delightful pineapple/tropical flavor. They suggested marinating berries in these wines, or adding a splash to jazz up a sparkling wine. Splits are $18.
I'll definitely visit Cass again. I only have to drive a few miles, but the staff tell of a legendary wine club member, who lets 5 or 6 months go by before collecting his selections in person -- from New York!